After cutting the windows on a CNC router table, the next step was to fit them to the existing openings. This required drilling evenly spaced holes along all edges. I found that by bolting my drill press to the side of my work bench and adding a bearing as a guide, I could drill the holes a precise distance from the edge.
Also, a handy tool for determining spacing, is an accordion style guide tool. This tool allows even spacing to be made between two end points.
guide for determining even spacing
drilling edge holes
temporarily mounted windows
port side cabin window
4 comments:
I have been waiting to see how you were going to do your windows. After 10 years I need to replace all of mine. My F-44 was factory built and they added molding on the inside for aesthetics but I think it just added weight and hides leaks.
How did you determine screw spacing? At a glance, I'd probably have been tempted to put about twice as many as you did. i've seen green water over the beam and onto the windows of a cabin cruiser a couple times and i've been amazed at the magnitute of force that windows have to stand up against from time to time!
The primary attachment for these windows is accomplished by using the "Sikaflex" system. The screw fasteners are merely secondary and may simply provide a slightly larger measure of comfort and assurance. The Sikaflex system is a series of products used in a specialized way to insure a chemical bond between the openings and the polymer glass. It's wicked expensive and it's what all the premium yacht builders use. Plus it's made in New Jersey where all of the most noxious chemicals are made so it's got to be good.
yeah, i've used silkaflex before. it's amazing stuff. you could probably glue the mast to the deck with it and leave off the rigging..
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