Rather than wait until I finished the last hull half so that I could use mold forms 4,7,10 and 13 for cradles, I decided to cut a set of plywood cradles so that I could position the port side outer hull in preperation for mating it to the inside section. This will allow me to free up more shop space once the two halves are joined to become the port side hull. 
Here's a picture of the outer port side hull taken from under neath looking towards the bow. ( I think that's the mast bulk head with the door opening that is visible) The lamination was accomplished with a continuous length of 60 inch wide 34 oz stitched Triaxial glass 42 feet long. I ran the zero degree strands lengthwise against the foam with the two 45 degrees towards the outside. I layed the glass from bow to stern , laying down resin sufficient to allow me to cover one sectional width of peel ply at a time. ( about 1500cc per batch ) Once I was happy with the saturation, applied the peel ply and had worked any excess resin forward, I mixed my next batch and continued the methodical process. I find it nice to listen to some soulful music or a good public radio station while I work.......or, maybe I will try to find an MP3 file of screaming cicadas to remind me of the sounds of an Alabama southern night.
This simple hand layup technique has resulted in a surface that will not require much final faring at all.
(for scale, that's a 16ft. sea kayak hanging up behind the hull)
I was able to glass the entire 42 ft lower section of the port side hull; all after the day job. It did however, keep me up till 3:00 because I was commited to laying down the full run of glass. I used 34 oz stiched triaxial glass and was able to work the fabric section by section along the full length of the hull..... Again, as described in my previous post.
The shape of the outer hull also allows for an even edge seem overlap and results in very little fabric waste. ....Nice lines Ian .
Odd tip: when laying down dry glass over wet foam, if you have small air bubbles or wrinkles, trace the fabric strands back to the edge of the fabric and tug on the individual fiber strands that pass over the bump. The glass will lay down flat with very little effort. In my case, the length wise strands were easy to roll out streight and when ever I had an uneven lay, I found it possible to do this "oriented strand edge pull "trick to persuade the glass to really hug the slightly convex hull form.
I have settled in on a consistent method of laying up the 34 oz. triaxial glass all by myself.
It goes someting like this:
1. prepare hull for glass.
a) sand foam w/ 36 grit w/ a 36 inch sanding board @ 45 degrees off plank seams
b) skim coat foam w/ mix of resin and micro/ aerosil using a sheet rock mud blade.
c) sand smooth
2. cut and dry fit glass.
3. mark edge.
4. roll glass back up.
5. plane recess for edge seam overlap ( when appropriate ).
6. mix a total of 1500 cc resin ( 1000 A + 500 B if using 2:1 epoxy )
7. roll out about half of your batch onto the surface of the boat along a length equal to the width of peel ply.
8. start unrolling the glass over the wet hull. ( I just use cheap 1/4 in nap paint rollers that I cut in half)
9. roll another coat of resin on the top side and allow the glass to fully saturate.
10. spread area cross ways w/ peel ply.
11. work any excess resin out by pulling a plastic body spreader towards the roll of glass.( if you run the roller back over the peel ply it makes it nice and easy to work any excess resin forward. A plastic spreader glides nicely over peel ply if it has a touch of resin on the upper surface) This also rids your roller of most of the resin and gives you a little extra time to insure the resin doesn't kick on your roller. This conserves resin and rollers
12. go back up to step # 6 and repeat section by section until you fall off the end of the boat.
Believe it or not, this method is very controllable and I am able to approximate the resin glass ratios obtained from resin infusion.
If you work neat, wear a Tyvec suit, gloves and you are particular NOT to get ANY resin on you, this process results in a nice lean layup.
I wanted to lay the 32 oz. triaxial glass lengthwise fore and aft and overlap the edges so that final fairing would go a litle easier. I cut a full length of glass to length, rolled it up on a 4 inch dia piece of pvc and checked to make sure that I could acomplish a uniorm dry lay. I then marked the edge, and rolled the glass back up. To create a lengthwise recess , I just placed a straight edge along my line and ran a power plane full length from stem to stern.
The sun casts a strange shadow on the starboard side hull. That's "Tang" on my shoulder.
Realizing that I had gotten ahead of myself, and that I need to consolidate all these hull sections, I decided that I should finish the exterior lamination of the port side hull. Hidden from view on the left, the inner port side hull section is complete and awating removal from the mold.
So......here is a recap of my shell game:
1) built port side outer hull ( seen here)
2) re moved deck/cabin portion of port side mold and reconfigured it to produce starboard inner hull section
3) flipped stations around on strongback to build inner port side
my next step will be:
4) re-attach deck/cabin portion to inner port side mold thereby reconfiguring it to produce starboard outer section
5) fit starboard inner section to starboard outer section while it is resting in it's mold.
6)disassemble mold form and use four station molds to cradle the port side outer hull so that I can then fit and bond the inner port side hull section to the outer port side section.
7) reposition the strongback to the center of the shop and set up to build the bridgdeck.
The port side boarding deck is bonded in place with a mixture of epoxy and aero ( fumed silica) . To do this, I lay in a triangular fillet stringer of core cell foam along the inside corner and then glass the joint with 6 inch wide strip of triaxial GSM tape. Then I work the fillet smooth with a plastic spreader and peel ply.
Sunlight casts curved shadows across the port side inner hull half as it rests in the mold. A few final details such as the forward water line and lower deck hull stiffeners are shown here. 
I've found it calming to place a few signs around the shop just to keep me focused.
I've been using a ltttle strip of wood to spread the glue evenly along the plank edge. When a nice even film of glue meets the water misted edge of the other plank on the mold, the joint firms up within an hour. I was able to lay all seven planks down in about the same time.
After forming and fitting the planks, I slide a plastic strip between the mold stringers and last plank, spray the edge down with a little water from a garden spray bottle then lay a string of glue down out of a plastic honey "jar".......make sure you don't bring the glue inside and set it on the kitchen counter. Toast, butter and polyurethane glue for breakfast may slow you down a bit. 
Pre-thermoformed plank sections are seen here ready to be glued against the lower edge of a full sheet of
foam that can be used to form the large flat section of the inner hull bows. You are looking at what will become the inside of the port side inner hull half.
Progress on the inner port side hull foam is being inspected for quality by "Tang". Tang is fully acredited and certified as an AS 9100 auditor and tends to make loud scuawks if too little glue is applied to a section of hull foam planking.
Nice to have a little help.
Here's a Georgetown chemist /PHD science educator and a professional photographer / graphic artist / fireman / chef / do gooder ( both surfers and shapers ) shaping the port side inner hull foam like a 44ft. surf board.
Here is the basic shell of the starboard inner hull section. The exterior side of this section was laminated w/ 34 oz. Tri-axial glass using System Three Silver tip resin. The peel-ply/ bondo spreader method was used which resulted in a very lean part with a fiber to resin ration on par with any vac bag or infusion technique. As usual, for visual test purposes, I couldn't help peeling back a small section of the peel ply ( upper left hand corner of hull section )
In the back ground, you can see the mold which has already been flipped to produce
the port side section. On the right, you can see two of the bulkheads of the starboard outer hull section as it sits on the floor waiting patiently for its inner hull section.
Note: this posting is out of sequence and should be located before the one below.
Here's one days work with my brother laying down some foam. We ripped the 3/4 in thick Core Cell foam into ten inch wide planks and thermoformed each plank by using the ten bulb easy bake oven seen on the left. With the oven settling out around 175 degrees F, I found that seven minutes ( no more no le ss )resulted in a nice soft plank that followed the stringers very well.
Here's the inner starboard hull section dry fitted with a full length run of 34 oz. / yd ^2 triaxial glass. I measured and placed the glass cloth over the foam and held it in place with a few spring clamps along the upper edge. If you look closely, you can see the recessed strip that I cut in the foam with a power planer to allow the next run of glass cloth to lay flush along the seam and reduce the amount of exterior hull finish work. 
I chose NOT to cut the foam down on the inside.
In that last embarrasing post, you may recal that I had a little "set back" but thanks to the encouragement and assistance of a good buddy, we were able to re-stack the dominos so that I can fire up the lazer level to make sure the forms are square and level to the strongback again. Once this is done, I can refasten all my 3/4in x 1 3/4in stringers and start forming and laying and edge gluing the 3/4 in thick vertical core cell foam.......
This time, I'm extra motivated because the piece that pops out of this mold is the inner port section that I really need to button up the port side hull.
Again,.....aside from laughable mistakes and the occational goof ups on my part, this ship is a blast to build.
Some times it's probably just best to go inside and read rather than work on the boat.
While attempting to "flip flop" the inner starboard mold profiles 180 deg on the strong back, I somehow managed to bump mold form 2 into mold form 3 and watched in horror as 3 hit 4, 4 hit 5, 5 hit 6 and on and on until my entire mold went flat.
It's sort of like accidentally bumping your elbow on a priceless ming Vase and watching the scene play out in slo mo.......I
didn't know whether to try a sprint to mold form 7 to head the whole thing off or just kick back and enjoy the show.
about all I could do was laugh at myself .
I'm posting this mainly to show folks that stupid things happen so don't give up.
If I can build the super cruiser I'm sure you can too......and I'm darn well gonna build her.
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